The next update includes the coach’s slide-out wall detail, and the slide-out topper/awning units. I scribed the side panels and they’ll receive the rivet detail next. I ultimately decided that I’m going to add the rivet detail, though most manufactures have gone to using a special tape to adhere the aluminum skin. NRC Modifications still use rivets, and that’s the custom toterhome manufacturer this build is based on. That’ll be next, before the final primer coat. I’ve also made four modern high end style roof-mounted awning units, two on each side, along with a front awning fairing. The fairing was customized from a ford LTL cab visor, and it will include clearance and marker lights. The rectangular door panel above the wheel wells is for an outdoor entertainment center. All of the slides and doors are non-functioning. I’m crazy, but to make everything operate demands a higher level of crazy than what I’m willing to give.

After doing the basic body work on the hood, I came to the conclusion that the seams were too deep and overall, out of scale, including where the grille surround meets the hood top and sides. More of a “trench” than a tiny seam in the aluminum panels. So, I puttied the seams and sanded it all again, carefully scribed the new seams. It also meant I needed to reapply most of the rivet decals again. Not a pleasant experience, but now the hood looks much better.
Here it is in the (hopefully) second to last primer coat. I used Mr. Surfacer 1500 black. By far, the best primer in my experience. 

A pair  

Alignment of the exhaust was difficult.   I think they had to be shortened (horz.) and lengthened (vert.). 

Adding grime to the cab using heavily diluted paint with a spray gun.   My favorite look is "in use" and am trying to learn the art of "less is more".
    Booby trap !!!  I have come to expect "issues".  The interior tub had to be relieved severely to clear an interference fit  with the air intake pipe (93).  The shift plate (68) was also not cooperative.  (too high, too long)     Copper tubing was used to fill the gap between the exhaust (95,96)  and mufflers.     

Took advantage of the unseasonably warm temperatures and decent humidity outside today and shot some color on the cab....still have a small bit of tape to clean up (door handles,wind shield wipers, script on the doors, etc. etc.)  Still working on the packer body.....so far so good.   

Hey Casey  Is the price for the Pete tanks for one or a pair. Ron G 

looks good to me.

I got some more work done on the packer body interior.    Filled in the open areas on what is the 1:1 scale hydraulic oil tank with styrene sheet.  Did some subtle weathering.     For what ever reason there is a notch on both upper corners of the kit ejector blade.  I filled in the upper Right notch with a piece of styrene sheet. Filled in the interior wall (Left piece} with styrene strips and automotive glazing and spot putty.  Will leave the sanding scratch marks in place on the rear 2/3rd's for metal to metal contact effect.    

A couple days ago I got some new Paasche bottles and lids w/tubes.  I noticed that the tube fitting on the 1oz. bottle lid was different than the lid that came with the air brush originally.  Not a problem,except that this tip/how to would not work with this new style? lid w/tube...so I came up with a working solution.    
Newer style lid w/ tube on the Left, the original VL air brush lid w/tube on the Right  
  With the newer style lid (Left) the vinyl tube fits inside the fitting.  With the original VL air brush lid w/tube (Right) the vinyl tube fits over a barbed fitting.    
 Newer style lid w/ vinyl tube removed
  This old CA glue bottle nozzle will become an adapter that goes between the lid fitting and the vinyl micro fuel line.  Be sure and clean any glue remnants from the nozzle...I used a drill bit and blew it out w/compressed air.    
  Remove the threaded portion of the nozzle...avoid cutting into the inner flange of the nozzle, this is what will end up fitting over the lid fitting.  

  Remove the grooved ridges from the base of the nozzle...remove enough so that the nozzle will fit up into the lid and the lid can be screwed to a bottle.  Taper the tip enough so that the vinyl micro fuel line will fit over the tip.    
  Slide the vinyl tube over the nozzle  
  Firmly press the nozzle over the fitting.
  1 oz. lid with tube adapter on a former clear coat bottle that has been re purposed for spray painting.